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Advanced Technical Mountaineering

Advanced Technical Mountaineering

6025m | Three Peaks Expedition | Peru

⏱ 18 Days 📅 May – September 💰 $20,690 USD 👥 Guide:Client 1:1 or 2:2

Technical Climbers Dream — Pisco Oeste, Artesonraju & Alpamayo

This trip will ascend aesthetic climbing lines on three exciting technical peaks, culminating in the exquisite Alpamayo (5947m). If you have some experience of NZ grade 3 or 4 climbs and enjoy longer, more technical routes then this is the trip for you. This trip is guaranteed to boost your climbing confidence, or increase your appreciation for flatter ground!

This trip provides minimal acclimatisation days, so you must meet in Huaraz on Day 1 already acclimatised to 4500m or higher. Arriving early into Peru to walk the Inca trail is sufficient, or arriving 5–7 days early into Huaraz to get adjusted is ideal.

The Peaks

Pisco Oeste 5752m (South Face) — Often climbed as an acclimatisation peak via the standard route, Pisco Oeste South Face holds a gem of an Andean climbing route. The technical difficulty is TD- or NZ 5+.

Climbing on the South Face of Pisco

Artesonraju 6025m (North Ridge) — This is a long, moderately difficult climb on what is known as the 'Paramount Mountain'. The route provides everything: glacier travel, steep snow and ice, and an airy ridge, capped by a beautiful summit. Graded D or NZ 4-.

Alpamayo 5947m (French Direct, Southwest Face) — Nominated the most beautiful mountain in the world during a 1966 photographic exposition in Munich. The Ferrari route gets about NZ grade 3, whereas other routes can be up to grade 4.

Peru Alpamayo Southwest Face

Itinerary (18 Days)

1
Meet in Huaraz — Gear check and trip briefing. Dinner and overnight in Huaraz (3090m).
2
Llanganuco Valley — Transfer to Pisco Moraine Camp (4900m). 5–7 hours trek past Meadow Camp and large green lake.
3
Warm-up Day — Option A: Ice climbing practice on Huandoy glacier (~5300m). Option B: Summit Pisco Oeste via standard route (PD or NZ 2-).
4
Pisco Oeste Summit (5752m) — South Face direct. Sustained ice route, mixed near summit ridge.
5
Rest Day — Contingency day at Moraine Camp (4900m).
6
Return to Huaraz — Private transfer from Llanganuco Road.
7
Rest Day in Huaraz — Eat, shop, rest, spa. Overnight in Huaraz.
8
Trek to Artesonraju Timber Camp (4500m) — Via Caraz, Cashapampa, through two long lakes. 7–8 hours.
9
Glacier Camp (5100m) — Climb moraine ridge and granite slabs to establish camp beneath Artesonraju's NE face. ~4 hours.
10
Artesonraju Summit (6025m) — Via North Ridge. 60-degree snow and ice along the ridge. 7–9 hours to summit, 4–5 hours descent. Long day.
11
Relocate to Alpamayo Base Camp — Descend with light packs to Santa Cruz valley junction and ascend to Alpamayo Base Camp (4300m). 5–6 hours.
12
Rest / Contingency Day
13
Col Camp Alpamayo (5,500m) — Scree, granite slabs, moraine and glacier travel to the Alpamayo–Quitaraju Col. 2–3 hours to moraine camp, then steeper to Col.
14
Rest / Contingency Day
15
Alpamayo Summit (5947m) — One hour glacier travel, then 275m of steep climbing. Descent to Col Camp via rappels.
16
Rest then descend — Morning rest, descend to Base Camp in the afternoon.
17
Return to Huaraz — Burros from Base Camp through the valley. Celebratory dinner in Huaraz.
18
Departure — Mountain Sized Brunch, debrief and departure.
High Camp on the Glacier

What's Included

Included

  • Guide fees, Burro and Arriero fees
  • All personal technical equipment
  • All return private transfers from Huaraz
  • Accommodation in Huaraz (4 nights)
  • All meals for trip duration
  • Group camping & cooking equipment
  • National Park fees
  • First Aid Kit, Altitude Medicines, InReach Satellite, PLB

Not Included

  • International air fares
  • Hotel in Lima or bus transfers to Huaraz
  • Hotel in Huaraz pre/post itinerary
  • Personal porter fees
  • Early departure / evacuation costs
  • Mountaineering / travel insurance (compulsory)
  • Tips or unspecified expenses