I continually ask myself the question, 'What kind of guide would I hire?' I've learnt that a good guide is one who is professional, unhurried, and has balance in their life — to guarantee that clients receive the best, most alert and attentive guide possible.
Qualifications — Start Here
You should only consider going with a guide certified with the NZMGA (New Zealand Mountain Guides Association) to ensure that a high level of skill and expertise has been attained. The NZMGA is a member of the IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations) / UIAGM (Union International des Associations de Guides de Montagne), which have reviewed and approved the NZMGA assessment and standards process.
Given that all mountain guides are assessed to the same standard, the things that set them apart will be their soft skills and ability to nurture a client to their ultimate success.
Experience and Specialisation
Not all guides are equal — qualifications establish a baseline, but experience shapes character and judgment. Ask potential guides about:
- How many seasons have they guided in the specific region?
- Have they summited the peak you're aiming for? How many times?
- How do they handle difficult weather or summit-day decisions?
- What is their emergency and first aid experience?
Gavin Lang has been guiding in the Southern Alps of New Zealand since 2004 and has completed multiple expeditions in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. That depth of experience — in specific terrain — matters.
The Guide-to-Client Ratio
This is one of the most important factors to consider and is often underestimated by first-time expedition clients. Many commercial expeditions operate at 1:4 or even 1:6 ratios to reduce cost. First Light Guiding operates at 1:1 or 2:2 on all technical expeditions.
The difference this makes in practice is significant:
- Individual pacing rather than group pacing
- Continuous coaching and feedback specific to you
- Better safety management — the guide is with you, not spread across multiple clients
- Flexibility to adapt the itinerary to your needs
- A genuine climbing partnership, not a conveyor belt experience
Personality and Fit
You will be spending days or weeks with this person in demanding conditions. Before booking, have a call or video chat. Ask yourself:
- Do they listen well and ask good questions about your goals?
- Are they confident without being dismissive?
- Do they seem genuinely invested in your outcome, or just in filling spots on their schedule?
Read testimonials carefully — look for mentions of how the guide handled challenges, not just whether the summit was reached.
What Sets First Light Guiding Apart
Guiding is a demanding job requiring physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual fitness. I incorporate coaching and self-development skills into every programme — ensuring maximum fulfillment rather than just summit statistics.
- 1:1 guide-to-client ratio on all technical climbs
- 20+ years of expedition experience in NZ and Peru
- NZMGA/IFMGA certified
- Certified Psychosomatic Therapist and Emotional Anatomy Consultant
- High-quality photography included at the conclusion of every trip
- Nutritionally dense, well-planned expedition food