Ama Dablam Expedition Update #3

Ama Dablam Expedition Update #3

10 May 2017

We laugh and joke and are in agreement that the real reason we go mountaineering is for the food. Not because mountaineering food tastes better, but because we can contentedly eat a bowl of fairly simple sustenance and feel absolute gratitude for it.

Camp 3 at 6400m

Establishing Camp 3 on Ama Dablam requires navigating past the Dablam — the hanging glacier that gives the mountain its name and its most significant objective hazard. Above Camp 3, the route steepens toward the summit pyramid.

At 6400m, the thin air makes simple tasks feel monumental. Boiling water takes longer. Sleep is fragmented. The body prioritises core function and sheds everything else.

The Patience of High-Altitude Mountaineering

Waiting at altitude is one of the defining skills of high-altitude climbing. Weather windows are short, conditions change rapidly, and the temptation to push when you shouldn’t is always present.

The teams that do well on peaks like Ama Dablam are not necessarily the fittest or the most technically skilled. They’re the ones who can sit with uncertainty, manage their energy reserves intelligently, and make sound decisions when fatigue is affecting their judgement.

Looking Toward the Summit

With Camp 3 established and the team acclimatised, attention turns to the summit push. The forecast shows a viable window in the coming days. We rest, eat, hydrate, and wait.

Continue reading: Expedition Update #4 — Summit →